Of course, you mustn't to abuse of the HDR processing... but It's sometimes so funny!
I bring the little wolf spiders (and other bugs) of The Wild Window with a sinister and aggressive HDR post-processing.
A little game for explore other options in processing. I hope you enjoy!
Wednesday, 19 March 2014
Sunday, 9 March 2014
In the last entry I spoke about "natural light" vs "flash" and depth of field in macrophotography. Aperture modifies the amount of light and the depth of field, so these two concepts are related.
Then, I was concerned about the loss of natural ambient light. I'm going to show a crab spider with a correct equilibrium "natural - artificial light" and with a strong flash.
In both cases the flash was shot, but in one of them the parameters were set in search of equilibrium, and in the other, we've lost the natural ambient light. When we lose the natural ambient light, we have more aseptic images. Maybe we can view better some details in this case, but we lost "sensations" associated to natural light (e.g., the warmth of the light on the morning, with its weak shadows). When we lost natural light, we can lose "context" too.
What is the problem? My flash is a "TTL dedicated". I can't to use my flash in a manual way. The light is controlled by the camera sensors. I only can modify the EV flash compensation, but my camera decides how many time is working my flash. When I change the aperture, the ISO, or the exposure time, I don't change the exposure of the main subject, but I change how the natural ambient light is captured. Then, when you try to rescue the natural light, you have several options:
i) To increase the ISO speed
With higher ISO, the sensor is then more sensible to light in exterior.
The problem now is the noise. When we increase the ISO speed, the noise grows too, so the ratio "signal-noise" is worst. This changes affect to image quality. However, you can view that the ambient light with ISO 800 is much more important that when the ISO value is 100.
ii) To increase the exposition time
However, large exposure times produce blurred photos when there are tiny vibrations. This changes affect to image sharpness.
iii) To use wider apertures
To shoot with a strong flash is easier for me, but I'm in search of equilibrium, looking for all these lost sensations of the natural ambient light.
Sunday, 2 March 2014
Today I've been speaking with an estimated friend about macrophotography. We have been speaking about the depth of field, and I think that it is a very interesting topic to discuss.
I think that it's a personal decision in each case, but is there a "best option" for DoF in macrophotography?
Our conversation was about photography of bugs, so I'm going to try to illustrate this entry with my own pictures from The Wild Window.
In macrophotography, the depth of field is usually very short. When you are taking a picture of a bug, what is the properly depth of field? There are two options: some people think that a bigger DoF is better, because you can watch sharper the principal subject, but others think that macrophotography is about "short DoF", taking more symbolic pictures.
If you think in the first way, you have some technical problems. The gear for macrophotography usually produces very short depth of field, even using very closed apertures. One option in this case is to take several pictures and join them with a computer. This option have other problems, like the stability of the system (your photographic system is usually vibrating, so is very difficult to take two or more pictures in the same position). By other hand, the bugs usually are in movement.
If you chose a short depth of field (wide apertures), you can shoot faster, but to put it in focus is harder.
Forgetting the technical aspects, what do you like more? A symbolic picture with only a detail in focus or a sharper image of the same bug?
|A very short depth of field|
|A larger depth of field|
|A very short depth of field|
|A larger depth of field|
|A very very short depth of field|
Maybe my pictures are not good examples, I usually choose shoot with large depth of field and I need to practice the other modality. You can view this pic of bachullus ♥ © as example of extreme short depth of field.
Maybe to ask "What is the best option?" is a stupid question, and every situation requires an individual study. However, photographers seems to be agree about similar rules, like to shoot with short DoF in portraits, for examples. By other hand, every rule in photography was made to be broken.
I'm usually shooting at f/16, during 1/250 secs, ISO 400 and flash TTL. With my gear, these parameters produce a depth of field large enough to capture a little bug, or a significant part of a bigger bug (its head, for example). That is my first choice. Maybe, if the bug is quiet, I could to try later other options (DoF shorter, for example).
The second part of this entry is about the above parameters. My macrophotography gear is very dark. A close aperture (f/16) and a high speed (1/250 secs) make the system darker yet. I solve it with a ring flash TTL. I've been reviewed my last photographs and I use too much artificial light.
The artificial light solves the problem of the lack of natural light or the large shooter speeds, but you can lost the details of the original scene (the original ambient).
I show below two different situations:
In the first one we can view the effect of the natural light and the ambient that it generates. In the second one, we can view bigger the bug, with a more dramatic light, but the environment light has been lost. Maybe the second option is interesting for some situations, but I would like to rescue the environment light.
Why I've lost the environment light? In the past, I shot without flash, or with a powerless integrated flash. Now I have a powerful ring flash, and it makes all the work. I can not to allow it!
I think the best solution is to use larger exposition times, wider apertures (shorter DoF), higher ISOs, and reduce the flash compensation. I would like to try these changes:
f/16 <-> f/9
1/250 secs <-> 1/125 secs
ISO 400 <-> ISO 800
0EV <-> -0.7EV
I've been testing and some of the last pictures in The Wild Window already have these changes (or similar), for example, the next:
|f/10, 1/100 secs, ISO 500, -0.7EV|
The focus and the sharpness are my current problems. My goal for the next sessions is to rescue the lost environment light and to use the flash in equilibrium with it, looking for the correct focus and the properly sharpness.